This rifle barrel replacement kit contains almost everything needed to change the barrel on a Savage 110-series rifle. What it lacks is a barrel vise and action wrench; in my case, I obtained a barrel vise elsewhere, and didn't need to use an action wrench.
I had to de-bur the locknut wrench before use, the bore paste tube was leaky and caused the label to fall off the tube, and the barrel was sticking out of the box when the package arrived... but in the end, I'm happy with this barrel and kit, and I can recommend it to others.
- Quality rifle barrel with a nice blued finish - nicer than the factory barrel that it replaced.
- The barrel was plenty accurate.
- Includes extras to help you get the job done.
- Made in USA.
- I had to de-bur the action wrench.
- Bore paste tube leaked due to a defective tube, and the lid wouldn't tighten up (stripped threads).
- 338-06 barrel only available in heavy magnum contour.
- Kit containing a chambered, threaded, and finished rifle barrel for Savage 110 series rifles.
- Also contains go and no-go gauges, double-ended barrel locknut wrench, oil, and bore paste.
- 4140 chrome moly steel, blued finish.
- Available in a number of chamberings; this one was chambered for 338-06 A-Square...
- ...Brownell's part number is 100-002-796; Manufacturer's number is 110SAV33806.
- This barrel has a .475" magnum contour, with 1-10 rifling twist.
Guide Review - E.R. Shaw Barrel Replacement Kit for Savage 110 Series Rifles
If this rifle had been a short-action gun (and if easily-obtainable pre-chambered barrels had still been available), I might have chosen to rebarrel the gun for the 338 Federal. Because this was a long action gun, I thought it folly to go with a short-action cartridge, so I settled on the 338-06 A-Square cartridge - and began looking for a barrel.
A look at Brownell's turned up just the thing, in the form of this kit. All I'd need other than the stuff in this kit and my rifle was a barrel vise and possibly an action wrench, which I obtained elsewhere.
When the package arrived, I was instantly alarmed to see the barrel protruding through the end of the box, as can be seen in the accompanying photo. It turned out to be unharmed, and the next impression I had was that this barrel was heavy. As in, three and a half pounds! Wow... that magnum contour (the only diameter of pre-chambered barrel that I found) sure weighs a bunch. It was also longer than I wanted, at 24 inches, and I planned to cut it down.
Looking further into the package, the next thing I noticed was that the locknut wrench was deadly, meaning that it had been cut very precisely from a hunk of flat steel, but hadn't been de-burred at all. The edges on one side of the wrench were extremely sharp, and would easily have sliced my hands open had I used it as a wrench as it was.
The good thing about the wrench is that it's double-ended, and will work on Savage locknuts with square grooves as well as those with rounded grooves.
I grabbed a couple files and went to work on the wrench, and about ten minutes later I had improved it to the point which I classified in my notes as "decent, but not great."
The go and no-go gauges are not marked other than different colors of paint (red for no-go, and green for go). I checked them in the factory-barreled rifle, and they worked fine.
It's worth noting here that E.R. Shaw recommends that the barrel be installed by a professional gunsmith - and that, if you ship the gun and barrel to them, E.R. Shaw will install the barrel on your gun for free. Not a bad deal - but it wasn't for me, since I wanted to shorten the barrel, and do the work myself.
After cutting and re-crowning the barrel, I cleaned it thoroughly with the included bore paste and gun oil. It did a good job, and cleaned up the already-nice rifling very well, along with cleaning up the crown which I had cut. It's worth noting here that the factory crown looked excellent.
Installing the barrel in the action was a breeze. Simple place the go-gauge in the chamber, put the closed bolt into the action, and run the action onto the barrel until the gauge stops it. Then tighten up the lock nut. Try the no-go gauge, and if you can close the bolt on the no-go gauge, you need to start over.
After satisfying yourself that the headspace is correct by using the gauges, fire a round or two and check headspace again. I did so, but it checked out fine every time.
Accuracy from the rebarreled gun was pretty good, and with proper ammo I think I can improve on it even more. I fired a number of groups that measured less than one inch at 100 yards.
This is a good kit, which contains some essential parts, along with a good quality rifle barrel. The hardest part of the barrel-changing process, providing you don't want to cut down the barrel, is removing the old barrel from the action.
This is a good product, and I recommend it.
- Russ Chastain